I’ve just got home after a holiday over the festive period in Athens. The main reason to go was to give my Dark Lady a chance to go visit her mother and to give the aforementioned mother-in-law a chance to see how our Spawn is getting on. All things considered it was a great trip and Terminal 4 at Heahrow is a big improvement on the old Terminal 2. It would, of course, have been even better had Aegean Airlines not decided to move their flights from Stansted to Heathrow, but such is life. In the end, because of that we chose to fly with Olympic Air (the successor to Olympic Airways) and we had remarkably trouble free journeys in both directions.
Much as I like Greece and Greek culture (especially the food as served by my Dark Lady’s fearsome mother), there are one or two little niggles, one or two little details that seem insignificant at first and then irritate. These are neither large enough nor serious enough to damage my philhellenistic tendencies but they do act like a bucket of cold water in the face each time I am here to remind me- if the temperature, palm trees and different alphabet fail to do the job- that I am in a foreign country.
So what are these things that put such a dampener on my enjoyment of an otherwise excellent country. One is the Greek bureaucracy which is not the oxymoron it might seem to English prejudices. It is instead something utterly ferocious and as punctilious and authoritarian as to be a Whitehall mandarin’s wet dream, perhaps as a response to the pleasant laid-back attitude of most Greeks. Fortunately for me, my brushes with this dread beast have been few and on this visit none, save a protracted period or two standing outside the bank while my Dark Lady proceeded to wheel and deal with the family finances within. The reason I waited without was thanks to the bureaucracy of the banks and their insistence on a system of double doors that make it impossible to enter their premises while manhandling a child in a pushchair. This is supposedly a security feature, though I have yet to learn of any spate of toddler-related bank robberies. I think that they simply prefer to work without the noise of babies and their gurglings, whimperings and occasional screamings. As I was not going to leave our Spawn in his buggy outside alone, I waited there with him for a length of time determined by the large amount of paperwork required for my Dark Lady to do even the smallest thing in the bank.
However, the real annoyance on this visit is not Greek bureaucracy but rather Greek plumbing. It really is a mystery to me and is quite perplexing in a number of ways. The first is the inability of the pipes that lead from lavatories to deal with paper. They are perfectly capable of dealing with the solidity of anything that the human body might produce (and after airline food those productions can be quite solid) yet it is well known that even the tiniest wisp of something so insubstantial as toilet paper can cause a blockage. This is of course quite ridiculous, because toilet paper is designed to virtually dissolve when saturated with water and yet it is also quite true. Hence each lavatory has a tiny bin in which one can deposit one’s paper waste. This need to retain the paperwork from one’s lavatorial transactions might well be the hand of the Greek bureaucracy at work. I can certainly think of no other reason for the plumbing to be organised in this way.
Of course, were that the only idiosyncrasy of Greek plumbing, I might not be quite so grumpy every time I come out here. However, it is not. The phrase “cleanliness is next to godliness” is inscribed deeply on the Greek soul and they love to shower. This is not just my impression, but it is confirmed by that indispensible guide to all things Greek, The Xenophile’s Guide to the Greeks. It is surprising therefore that, considering the Greek love of showering, they have yet to invent (or even borrow from their European neighbours) the idea of a fixed shower head, one which does not have to be held in the hand for the duration of the shower.
How can they not know the sheer joy of just standing there and feeling the rivulets of water falling onto them like warm rain. Moreover, how can the sheer practicality of things have eluded them; trying to hold the shampoo bottle, squirt some of the viscous detergent into one’s other hand and hold the shower head at the same time is a recipe for disaster. Or at least a very wet floor. Quite simply, it’s maddening.
What is more maddening still, however, is the fact that the shower is on the same water line as all the taps. So as soon as anyone uses, say, the kitchen tap, the pressure and, consequently, the temperature of the water in the shower change in response. I am sure that my mother-in-law must have a hidden camera in the shower so that she can coordinate her manipulations of the taps in the kitchen to cause the maximum disruption. How else can it be that parts of my body which should never be subjected to excessive temperatures have been scalded each time I attempted to clean or rinse them? Suffice it to say that I know have a very different mental image when reading the end of the Lord of the Rings where Tolkien describes the boiling fluid flowing about the Crack of Doom.
Yet all things considered, these are small tribulations to bear when one is in such a wonderful place. The people, bureaucrats aside, are wonderfully friendly and accepting and overall, I can’t think of many nicer places in the world. If only they’d sort out their plumbing, get decent tea and learn to serve bacon and eggs for breakfast…

I am almost certain that the subject heading here for this entry will have caught some attention. However, I’m not really posting anything here for the prurient. So, apologies to any who have got this far hoping for something juicy. We’ve had a bit of a mini heatwave here, so people have been going about in far less than they usually wear. So I was reminded of something I wrote for a yahoo group a few years ago. The question had been asked about public nudity; specifically, what we thought of it and whether the laws should be altered. Well, being me, the inevitable answer was as follows.



